You can find a mass-market beer on any grocery shelf. But Don Sullivan, owner of Southampton Publick House Brewery, hopes those yearning for something special might instead reach for his newly released Double White Ale.
Light in color, with a taste that hints of orange and coriander, this ale already has earned the No. 2 spot for Belgian-style white brews in the rankings by RateBeer.com, an online community for beer enthusiasts.

"A seasonal beer in our portfolio," Sullivan says it once was only available at his Southampton microbrewery and restaurant (and maybe at a few select bars and restaurants in the region.) But now Double White Ale is Publick House's third bottled brew to be widely available at supermarkets, gourmet shops and beverage outlets in New York and four other East Coast states. But Sullivan and brewmaster Phil Markowski have a bigger agenda. With its India Pale Ale due for release Sept. 15, and another by spring 2006, Publick House aims to be the nation's next Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., in other words a runaway success. In 10 years, it hopes for full nationwide distribution.

The experts think Publick House stands a chance - if it navigates the challenges of mass distribution.

"They are really in the right arena," says Kristen Wolfe Bieler, editor of Beverage Media in New York. "The beer industry in general, which is heavily dominated by major brewers (Bud, Coors, etc.), is really struggling." The majors haven't been as innovative as they need to be to retain drinkers and have failed to release any exciting new products.

"The segment of the beer industry that is growing is small, specialty brewers," which means Publick House "is competing in the most interesting subcategory of the beer industry."

"Their taste profile (at least the White Ale) won't present a difficult trade-up for consumers looking to upgrade from a less expensive beer," Wolfe Bieler estimates.

Back in Southampton, Sullivan says that's been the case already, at least from his anecdotal evidence. From out-of-town patrons he hears "We wish we could buy this in New Jersey or Pennsylvania." Widespread interest in specialty brews - combined with the "explosion" of flavored waters and vodkas, and the variety juices now available in low-acid, pulp-free, and vitamin enriched options - prompted Sullivan to bottle his own special beverages for a thirsty marketplace.

With nine-plus years as a microbrewer, Sullivan is convinced he's "established enough brand awareness" and feels comfortable to test the market with bottled products.

While other microbrewers closed during the 1990s, in part because of over-expansion or poor management, Publick House stayed focused on its brew.

"Our mission is to create a unique style line of beer," Sullivan says. "The restaurant is an accessory to the brewery. If the beer is less than great, you'll forever lose that consumer.

Publick House models itself after European brewers who are "much more in tune with seasonality than Americans," Sullivan said. It's the same approach embraced by American chefs. "What restaurant doesn't talk about fall, with squashes, pies," he adds. Similarly, his brews follow harvest patterns. In fall, it's time for Octoberfest Lager and Pumpkin Ale, and in winter, it's French Country Christmas Ale.

Following the seasons is a "back to basics" approach, which Sullivan honors with his 22-ounce bottles that are styled after those used during World War II. This larger bottle signals to consumers that the brews are different than traditional beer.

The brews are bottled at a contract brewer in Saratoga in small batch, limited production (Publick House only made 1,000 cases of the Double White Ale, for instance.) Much like a cherished summer fruit, once the inventory is sold, that's it until next year, Sullivan says.

As for its plan to go national, Michael Smith, a national craft-beer importer in Los Angeles, warns the New Yorkers that they face a "monumental task."

"National distribution is very daunting," he says. "There is a climate of contraction in the distribution trade. Small distributors are going out of business or are being bought out by the big guys."