Think of the word beer and most people conjure the standard American light lager – a style of brew that became dominant after prohibition. Perceptions began to change back in 1968 however, when Fritz Maytag (as in Maytag appliances) determined that America needed a new kind of beer – one with flavor, where the yeasty taste of malt and hops actually came through. The result was Anchor Brewing Company in San Francisco, America’s first microbrewery where the aptly named Liberty Ale was crafted, spawning a market for quality, hand-crafted beer across the country.

Not surprisingly, Long Island followed the lead of these new-style brewers. In 1998, Suffolk County boasted 10 microbreweries. Sadly, a combination of economic factors gave the fledgling industry a dose of reality; two years later half of those microbreweries were forced to close their doors. However, the five that survived have done extremely well and have been instrumental in shaping Long Island’s reputation as a solid haven for craft beer.

Eastern Long Island’s oldest currently operating microbrewery is the Brickhouse in Patchogue. Technically, this microbrewery is a brewpub, which means it’s a brewery attached to a restaurant, a model that has been successful in luring a stream of patrons for beer brewed on-site. The Brickhouse serves up tasty brews with names such as Boys Red Ale, Hurricane Kitty, Paul Brown and Nitro Stout.

The Southampton Publick House opened its doors just one month after the Brickhouse in July 1996. Brewmaster Phil Markowski, who has a national reputation, has crafted beers here over the last 12 years that have won 23 national and international awards. Publick House’s signature quaff is Secret Ale, a German-style Alt beer. Markowski has also pioneered a new style of lager he calls Double White, which has won three national beer awards. Other brews such as Hoegaarden and Blue Moon remain popular, especially among drinkers new to craft beer.

Blue Point Brewing Company in Patchogue got its start in December 1998 when friends Mark Burford and Peter Cotter became convinced that Long Island merited a stand-alone microbrewery. Determined to craft a lager that would appeal to the folks downing Sam Adams and Bass Ale by the tankard, yet different enough to have its own character, they created Blue Point Toasted lager. In the last decade, Blue Point has introduced a full line-up of regular and seasonal beers such as Hoptical Illusion and Blueberry Ale. Blue Point is also home to the annual Long Island Real Ale Festival held on the last Saturday of every January.

Newest to Suffolk is Star House Brewery, a microbrewery slated to open its doors in the North Fork town of Greenport sometime in 2009. Partners Richard Vandenburgh and John Liegey plan to turn an old firehouse into a stand-alone microbrewery. With the growing popularity of Long Island’s wine country tourism, a brewery on the North Fork could potentially become an oasis. Star Hose plans to have two beers as part of its year-round line-up: a Pilsner and possibly and India Pale Ale (or IPA.)